Climbing Summary Icefall Brook, 2004

Mountain                                                                       parties/participants

•  Forbes - 3612m   / 11,852'  N Face /   W Ridge                 3 / 27      

•  F4   Little Forbes 3150m / 10,174'   E Ridge                      2 / 12

•  E Division 3000m /   9690' W Slopes / E Ridge            11 / 112

•  W Division 3030m / 9787'    E Face / SW Ramp           14 / 91

•  Mons 3083m / 10,114'   N Glacier / NW Ridge             16 / 119

                                             N Glacier / N Face                  1 / 3

•  Cambrai 3134m / 10,122'    N Ridge                              7 / 45

•  Messines 3100m / 10,013'     E Ridge                           6 / 33

•  St Julienne 3090m / 10,236'  NW Ridge                       9 / 45

•  Christian (Lyell 5) 3390m / 11,009'  S Face               11 / 126

•  Ernest (Lyell 3) 3511m / 11,340'  N Face                  10 / 104

•  Edward (Lyell 2) 3514m / 11,350'    W Ridge             5 / 66

E Ridge / N Ramp                                                             5/ 38

•  Rudolph(Lyell 1) -   3507m / 11, 327'   S Ridge / W Face        5 / 38

•  Mule Deer 2887m / 9610'     NW Ridge                     5 / 20    

 

Note the weather was exceptional, we only lost a couple of climbing days during the 5 week duration of the camp. St Julienne proved to be the crowd favorite, a pleasant climb of moderate distance and with some interesting climbing and spectacular views. Unfortunately Walter (Lyell 4) was out of shape due to the lousy snow pack and early melt. The bergschrund on the standard NE ridge route was foreboding. Again, due to the lousy snow pack, the N face of Forbes proved to be a shooting gallery of rockfall and was out of shape after Week 1. The TNF folks forged a route up the N face during Week 5 but it took nearly 20 hours and had three near misses with rockfall. Lens and La Clytte were not visited due to a lack of interest in traveling the long trip across the W Lyell Glacier.

 

Drop me a line if you would like anymore specific information about the Icefall Brook climbing routes.

Thanks a lot, Brad Harrison                    colwest@telus.net          604-970-7382