Climbing Summary – Moby Dick, 2005

 

Mountain                                                                                                                 parties/participants

 

•  Claggart-Billy Budd Traverse 2790m / 9240'  Slopes/ W Ridge/ Houston Pass                                          24 / 186

•  Claggart Spire (East) – 2757m / 9050'     N Slopes / W Ridge                                                        1 / 6     

•  Escalade 2950m /9680'      W Proteus Glacier / E Ridge                                                            13 / 73

•  Fafnir – 2835m / 9250'       Houston Pass / E Ridge                                                                 14 / 93

•  Forecastle – 2930m / 9650'   S Face / S Ramp                                                                                 9 / 61

                                        NE Glacier / Little Pequod / N Ridge                                             1 / 3

•  Moby Dick – 3170m / 10,460'   S Glacier / E Couloir / E Ridge / E Peak                                      22 / 134

                                          Center Couloir / Center Pk / W Ridge                                           1 / 8

•  Proteus – 3220m / 10,660'     Houston Pass / S or W Glacier / S Ridge                                       21 / 158

•  Redburn-White Jacket - Proteus – 3100m / 10,013' S Glacier / E Redburn Couloir / E Ridge              6 / 28

•  Typee – 2865m / 9550'   S Glacier / SW Ridge                                                                   13 / 106

•  Snow/Ice/Rock School –     Various Locations                                                                   10 / 126

 

Note – the weather was up and down, Weeks 1 and 2 were quite rainy but we still managed to get out climbing on most days. Weeks 3 – 6 enjoyed exceptional weather. The climbs were of a more technical variety than the previous two GMC's in the Rockies . The base camp was centrally located and the approaches were very short, good-bye to the slogs. Nearly all of the climbs were “involved”, with Typee being the only true walk-up. Escalade was the favorite of the rock jocks and the Redburn-White Jacket – Proteus traverse is an exceptional climb. Moby Dick was the camp favorite. With so much good climbing in close proximity to the base camp, the distant summits of Scylla, Outrigger and Obstacle were left unchallenged.

 

If anybody is still interested in purchasing a 2005 Moby Dick t-shirt, I still have some XL's and some S's left.

 

Drop me a line if you would like anymore specific information about the Moby Dick climbing routes.

 

Thanks a lot,                              colwest@telus.net          604-970-7382

Brad Harrison