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Route Synopsis - Windy Creek, GMC 2001


  Remillard (2881m/9450) UTM 227297

FA July, 1937 Topographical Survey (Norman McConnell)

v     GMC Route follow Windy Ck dropping 200 and cross Remillard Ck. Follow creek to the toe of the glacier, work SW aiming for snow ramp just west of the last waterfall. Follow obvious weakness, which is a leaning double fall line snow ramp, 45 degrees and nearly 800. Cross small schrund on W side and ascend ramp, working left to avoid cornice as you near the top. There is some rockfall danger from E ridge. Head S. across the upper Remillard Glacier and then climb through some slots on the E. glacier to a low point on the S. ridge of Remillard. Follow a very nice granite ridge, easy 4th class to a very alpine feeling summit.

Descent: Retrace route

v     Variation E. Ridge, after reaching the upper glacier, follow the E. ridge. Stay on the ridge proper. This route offers good climbing, 5.4 on good rock. There is a very airy rappel.

v     Variation SE Ridge, after reaching the upper glacier, head due S. to the low point on the SE ridge. It is best to start at the base of the ridge, you wont save time by trying to gain the ridge higher up. Work to the N. if you want to avoid a 5.6 crack early on the ridge. Stay on the ridge proper, it is low 5th or 4th class to the summit. This is a highly recommend route, in a class with the standard route on Pigeon Spire.

                                  Party Size Rope teams of 4/ Variations Rope teams of 3

                  Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness, crampons, long slings / Variations add 4 small cams and #4-#7 nuts, 3 large slings

                  Length of Trip 8 hours / E. Ridge 12-14 hours / SE Ridge 9-11 hours

                  Highlights highest peak in the area, very aesthetic couloir on the approach. A very alpine feel for a 9450 summit. Rock is of a very good quality.


               Remillard Nadir Notch Traverse

FA Unknown maybe 2001, D. Austin, C. Bussey, N. Zupan, B. Harrison

v                                         Route Ascend Remillard as previously described. Descend via E. Glacier to low point (large boulder) on W. side of Upper Remillard Glacier. Head E. to col between Wart and Unnamed bump S. of Wart. Climb easy, pleasant, granitic, 4th class S. ridge to summit of Wart. Traverse N., one length rappel, to N. end of Wart. Use two 50m rappels off the NW side to drop into snow ridge between Wart and Half Dome. Follow ridge to S. ridge of Half Dome, scramble to summit. Down climb N. end of Half Dome on lousy, loose rock and dirt until reaching a prominent notch. Difficult down climb or 40 m rappel to notch. Continue S over Unnamed and then E. to Unnamed A. This is all 3rd class except 30m of low 5th class to summit of Unnamed A. Work E., following pleasant granite and then grassy ridge down Nadir Notch. Descend N. slopes, which are awkward boulders, gravel and heather to Windy Ck. Follow Windy Ck back to campsite

                        Party Size Variable, dependant on ability of members

                        Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness, crampons, long slings

                        Length of Trip 12-14 hours

                        Highlights highest peak in the area, really good rock on Remillard, Wart and Unnamed A. A really cool traverse with many variations and great views.

 


               Whiteface Towers 2829m/9279 UTM 298323

FA 1971, G Bell, D Michael via S. Buttress (5.6)

GMC Route Aug 16th, 2001 (L Palechuk, E May, B Harrison)

v     Route - head E along Windy Ck and then N ascending pocket glacier S of Serendipity and W of Whiteface. Climb the most southerly snow chute as high as it will take you. Grovel through steep and very loose rock and dirt to ridge between Serendipity and Whiteface Tower. Ascend 250 of good granite (low 5th class) to minor bump on ridge. Stay on the somewhat airy ridge top to base of the W. summit. Ascend 300 of junky, loose boulders to W. summit. Follow 4th class ridge, again granite, to C. summit which is 4th class marble. Descend somewhat airy ridge of marble to col between C. and E. summit. Work exposed but easy ledges on S side to the E. summit.

Descent retrace route to point where you gained the ridge. Continue along ridge towards Serendipity for about 100 meters until you see obvious place to rappel

            Party Size Rope teams of 3

            Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness, crampons, long slings

            Length of Trip 12 hours

            Highlights cool ridge with some good rock, three summits, a huge variety of climbing surfaces: steep snow, granite, marble and some friable junk. Difficult to protect large groups from rock fall.


         Serendipity Spire 2857m / 9371 UTM 300330

FA 1972, P Owzarski, J Wilson, M. Zimmerman

v     GMC Route head E along Windy Ck for .5 kms, ascend slide path heading towards the Courthouse/Echo col. When you reach the base of Echo at around 7800, traverse E. and then N. around Echo. Climb snowfield and dirt slopes until you reach ridge just E of Echo. Follow ridge up and over Tango, descend to Ok glacier and ascend W slopes to the Serendipity Spire. Head for the S end of the summit block, easy but pleasant 4th class traverse of the peak.

Descent Downclimb or rappel the N ridge, then retrace ascent route.

      Party Size unlimited

      Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness,

      Length of Trip 9 hours

      Highlights pleasant ridge walk with great views and nice summit block

 


               Craw Pk 2637m / 8649 UTM 291292

FA 1972, T Dabrowski, P Owzarski, J Rowley, T Seim, M West, D Wilson, J Wilson

v     GMC Route head E along Windy Ck until you are opposite of Nadir Notch. Cross the creek and ascend grassy slopes/boulder field to the Notch. Follow the ridge W for a short distance and then contour on grassy ledges (7000) until you are just past Staircase Point. Descend slightly on glacier, working S of prominent buttress. Once past the buttress ascend glacier and snow (40 degrees) to low point on N ridge approximately .3 kms S of Craw Notch. Follow ridge, good granite, with a couple of short 5th class steps to summit.

Descent Retrace ascent route

      Party Size rope teams of four

      Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness, slings (good horns are available)

      Length of Trip 9 hours

      Highlights very nice climb with a relatively steep snow approach and then a pleasant ridge climb.

Variation #1WSW Ridge FA Aug 17, 2001, K Klassen, S Fedyna, J Clark, T Ogasawara

v     Route same as noted above. Once you are below the buttress ascend the glacier working through some slots S and W to the base of the SW ridge. Stay on the snow bypassing the first notch and prominent gendarme. Head for the second notch on the ridge, upon reaching the notch climb slightly left and up to the ridge proper. The rock is a bit loose up the face (5.5) and the suggested route is to stay on the ridge proper (5.6-5.7) right from the notch. The climbing is slightly harder but the rock of a much better quality. Continue on the ridge, a short rappel will put you at the base of the summit block where a pitch of 5.3 will lead you to the summit.

Descent N.Ridge as per normal ascent route

      Party Size rope teams of three

      Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness, slings, 4 small cams and #4-#7 nuts, 3 large slings, 3 lost arrows

      Length of Trip 10 hours

      Highlights very nice climb, with an aestheticly pleasing glacier approach, good granite on the ridge and an easy descent

Variation #2 N Ridge - FA unknown CMH guides have completed it

v                 Route same as noted above once you are past Staircase Point ascend to low point, Craw Notch, just S of Staircase Point. Climb snow and then lousy boulders to the notch. Rock on the ridge is good, slightly furry granite. Three gendarmes block the ridge but are negotiable. The climbing is low 5th class but very exposed and complicated to protect. Work the ridge proper on the first gendarme and the W side of the next two. Once over these follow the ridge proper, 4th class and small sections of low 5th class to the summit.

Descent - N.Ridge as per normal ascent route

            Party Size rope teams of two for the gendarmes, three for the rest

            Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness, slings, 4 small cams and #4-#7 nuts, 3 large slings, 3 lost arrows

            Length of Trip 10 hours

            Highlights very nice climb, an exciting, exposed but easy ridge climb on good granite and an easy descent

* E Ridge has been climbed by the CMH guides date unknown

* SE Ridge is likely unclimbed


               Courthouse 2595m / 8511 UTM 270326

FA 1972, T Dabrowski, P Owzarski, J Rowley, T Seim, M West, D Wilson, J Wilson

v     GMC Route - head E along Windy Ck for .5 kms, ascend slide path heading towards the Courthouse/Echo col. Continue through col, crossing pocket glacier to low point on NE ridge of Courthouse. Follow ridge, 4th class, to the summit

Descent retrace ascent route

            Party Size unlimited

            Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness,

            Length of Trip 6-8 hours

            Highlights short day, good scramble on a rest

Variation W. Ridge July 30th, J Gudjonson, ????????

v           Route - head E along Windy Ck for .5 kms, ascend slide path heading towards the Courthouse/Echo col. Once you reach the 7000 level, traverse NW across sandy ledges until you reach the ridge proper. Follow ridge, low 5th class until you reach 2nd pitch which is the crux, it is an interesting but difficult to protect 5.4, 25 meter section. Stay on the ridge until you reach 8th pitch, here head left and around the NE side of the S summit. Once you are back on the ridge descend an easy 60 m, and then three more easy but exposed pitches will lead you to the summit.

Descent normal ascent route

            Party Size rope teams of three

            Equipment Required helmet, ice axe, harness, slings, 6 small/medium cams and #2-#7 nuts, some pins

            Length of Trip 8-10 hours

            Highlights interesting climb on marble, some challenging moves with exposure, short approach and quick descent