2001 – GMC Report – Windy Creek/Remillard
Aug 21, the skies are clear but storm clouds are building to the West. We were going to try and get a couple more days of climbing in but the weather forecast was grim at best. Eric Unterberger, manager of the CMH Adamant Lodge, had generously allowed us to use their 212 at short notice. Thanks to a lot of hard work by my excellent tear down crew and yeoman service provided by the 5th week participants on their last day, the camp was ready to move in a few hours. Seven weeks of another GMC are about to come to an abrupt end. It was a good summer, the campsite was sweet and the climbing different but interesting. We all learned about marble. The stoic folks of the 1st week were inspirational, suffering through dismal weather with ever-present laughter and smiles. The well-barbecued people in weeks 4 and 5 would have appreciated an hour or two of the rain. It is impossible to thank all the people who make the GMC engine run. The amateur leaders, cooks, guides and coordinators all work their butts off to satisfy the individual requests of each participant. This is not always an easy job, but they manage to get it done with a smile. Don McTighe and the staff at Alpine Helicopters provide us with reliable, accommodating and safe service. CMH allowed us to dominate the Remillard area for 6 weeks of prime time. Their generosity is incredible, Windy Ck is one of the most important summer use areas in their tenure.
On July 6th, 2002 a train of 6 or 7 overloaded pickups will be snaking up the Bigmouth Ck. Forest Service Road. The final destination of their payloads will be a campsite just west of the peaks that are Trident and Neptune. This is where the 2002 GMC will be. The mountains are remote, having entertained very few visitors. The W. summit of the 10,264’ Mt.Trident has been climbed twice, the first ascent was in 1937 by C.Hasler, K.Gardner, L.Guest and Ed Feuz and seconded in 1989 by the KMC. The S. summit has been climbed once in 1951 by T. Scudder. Trident Tower, to the north remains unclimbed. The variety of routes is endless. As well as a number of longer, technical challenges there are many pleasant, shorter and non-technical routes near the camp. There isn’t much beta about this area, drop me an e-mail if you are interested in learning more about the local routes. Many thanks to David Jones, for the information I have gathered from his enormous collection of data. Check out his new guidebook, “Selkirks South”, it is informative and a must-have for Alpinists. I believe “Selkirks North” will be out soon.
Before providing a summary of successful climbs for this summer’s GMC, I want to leave you with two quotes. I didn’t have my pocket recorder so they aren’t exact but I believe I have captured the general gist.
Doug Craig – “the GMC validates each and every participant, everybody’s opinion is worth something, we all feel like we belong”
Dave Dornian – while sliding down past his rope team, on a benign slope, after having a t-slot (he didn’t build) blow.
“off belay” (calmly)
Mountain parties/participants parties/participants parties/participants
Ø Remillard - 2881m/9450’ SE Glacier E. Ridge SE Ridge
17 / 97 1 / 4 3 / 11
Ø Craw – 2637m/8649’ N. Ridge WSW Ridge Craw Notch
11 / 61 1 / 4 2 / 6
Ø Foxtrot – 2550m/8364’ W. Ridge
13 / 89
Ø Serendipity – 2857m/9371’ OK Glacier
13 / 98
Ø Yardarm – 2644m/8738’ SE Ramp
14 / 101
Ø ACC – 2347m/7700’ E Ramp
11 / 63
Ø Bravo – 2750m/9020’ S. Ramp
7 / 55
Ø Courthouse – 2595m/8511’ NE Ridge W Ridge
6 / 23 3 / 17
Ø Echo – 2990m/9151’ NW Ramp E Ridge
7 / 31 3 / 11
Ø Whiteface Tower – 2829m/9279’ N. Ridge
1 / 3
Ø Wart – Half Dome – Acc Traverse 3 / 23
Ø Remillard – Wart – Half Dome – ACC Traverse 1 / 4
Thanks a lot,
Brad Harrison 4689 Mackenzie St. Vancouver, BC (604) 970-7382