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Route Synopsis Bugaboo / Vowell Area

  All information is relevant to having a camp at 6600 located near the toe of the Vowell Glacier. Refer to Maps 82K/10 and 82K/15. Information sources- Guides and Leaders 1997 GMC



               Bugaboo Spire (10,450)


v     Route - East side of Vowell Glacier to Snowpatch/Bugaboo col. Follow Kain(S. Ridge) route. At first step move right to base of first pitch, climb crack to ridge crest in one long pitch that is 5.4ish. Follow ridge for 200 mtr to base of gendarme. Useguide book topo for gendarme pitches.

Descent five rappels all on east side

      Party Size - 3 maximum

      Length of trip - 12 to 14 hours depending on group and traffic at gendarme

      Equipment Required - , 1, 2 Cams, 5 or 6 nuts, few runners, few long slings

      Highlights - One of the nicest rock climbs anywhere


               Northpost Spire (9550)

v           Route - Gain NE ridge by way of trail to Cobalt Lk and then diagonal S until final ridge. Scramble to summit.

Descend same route.

      Party Size - Unlimited, watching rockfall last 300 to summit

      Equipment Required - Helmet, ice axe, 9mm rope is adequate

      Length of time - 6 to 7 hours

      Highlights - Good views of Cobalt Lk, Vowells, Bugaboos. Rock is loose but some

variations near summit can provide some decent climbing.


               Crescent Spire (9350)

Route - East side of Vowell Glacier up to Bugaboo/Crescent col. Scramble S. ridge to

first summit and then follow ridge to next two summits.

Descend same route.

      Party Size - Unlimited

      Equipment Required - Helmet, ice axe, harness,

      Length of trip - 8 hours

      Highlights - classic ridge walk, easy 4th class, excellent view of NE ridge on Bugaboo Spire. Nice top roping in many places.

               Brenta Spire (9650)

v     Route - East side of Vowell Glacier, head east up scree slope following base of Brenta

Up glacier until snow steepens, climb right side of main gully following ledge

systems. (5.2ish) Gully is sloppy and not recommended. Up south ramps to ridge

leading to summit block. At first large block follow east side ledges around to

crack system that will lead you to summit.

Descend via two rappels(station is there for first rap) or downclimb.

      Party Size - 5 to 6

      Equipment required - Helmet, ice axe(leave at snow), two long slings

      Length of Time - 10 hrs

      Highlights - Nice rock climbing, some exposure, good intro to area climbing


               Wallace Pk (9650)

v     Route - W. Side of Vowell Glacier, up steep snow and around S. Side of Pilley Pk.

Continue around and into Wallace cirque. Gain S. ridge about way along

ridge, just right of gendarmes. Rock is loose. Follow ridge, drop down on

south to avoid slab. Follow snow right of ridge to summit.

Descent retrace ascent route.

      Party Size - Unlimited

      Equipment required - helmet, ice axe, slings

      Length of Time - 8-10 hrs

      Highlights - Challenging scramble, excellent first look into the Vowells


               Juniper Pk. (9150)

v                             Route - Same approach as Wallace. Stay low along S. side of Wallace crossing glacier

to base of N. ridge on Juniper. Follow ridge, ascending 45 degree snow

slope. Rock scramble to summit.

Descent - Scramble down rocky E. ridge to obvious col. Take steep snow slope down to glacier.

      Party size - Unlimited

      Equipment required - helmet, ice axe, slings

      Length of Time - 8 hrs

      Highlight - Nice snow ascent, excellent and different views of Vowells and Bugaboos


               Pilley Pk. (9250)

v     Route - W. side of Vowell glacier to upper bench on glacier. Scramble S. ramp

to summit.

Descent retrace ascent route

      Party Size - Unlimited

      Length of Time - 7 hrs

      Equipment Required - Ice axe, helmet

      Highlight - Short day, easy scramble


               Little Howser

v     Route - Follow E. side of Vowell glacier until reaching upper bench. Straight line

to NE face on Little Howser. Cross schrund on N. side and up steep

snow to ridge. Follow ridge to summit.

Descend same route.

      Party size - Unlimited

      Length of Time - 8 - 10 hrs.

      Equipment Required - ice axe, helmet, slings, ice screws

      Highlights - Great views of routes on Howser. Easy day.


               Pigeon Spire (10,250)

  v     Route - E. side of Vowell glacier to Bugaboo/Snowpatch col. Head S. to gain

base of W. Ridge. Follow ridge and up obvious chimney to base of

finger crack. Crack leads to last pitch which takes you to the summit.

Descend. Double rope rappel works best to get down to snow slope

near col. Follow ascent route the rest of the way.

      Party Size - 3

      Equipment Required - Helmet, ice axe, 2-3 midsize friends and 3 midsize nuts.

      Length of Time - 12 hours

      Highlights - Great views, lots of exposure, great rock, classic route


               Brenta/Northpost Traverse (9650)

v                             Route - ascend Brenta as per Brenta route description. From Brenta summit descend on W. side ledges. Follow ridge along to short rappel. After rappel follow

ridge (dropping off on E or W sides as required) to block. Crux pitch

follows (on E. side) crack system down, traverses across and then back up to

ridge. Crux is 5.7ish. Continue on ridge working left whenever up against

difficult pitches. At large block follow ledge system(very exposed) around

W. side to scree gulley which leads to Northpost summit.

Descent - via E. snow slope and into 40 degree couloir.

      Party Size - 4

      Length of Time - 8-10 hours

      Equipment Required - helmet, ice axe, 5 cams, 2 small wires, slings

      Highlights - Lots of 5.1 - 5.4 climbing with exposure. Great views. Spectacular ledge system at end of traverse. Quick descent.


               Archduke Trio (8750)

v     Route- Toe of Vowell glacier, ascend moraine to base of Tamarack Pk. Scree benches and snow patches around Tamarack into basin S. of Archduke. Stay high on snow to Archduke/Tamarack col. Rope up at start of ridge. Route follows ridge proper most of the way with key exceptions. On most occasions that the ridge is impassable traverse on the N. side ie the very beginning of the climb, just before Peaks 2 and 3. The route includes 1 rappel and 11/2 pitches of down- climbing. The crux (just before Pk. 3) begins by climbing a wall to gain sharp ridge. Follow ridge until it is possible to downclimb to the N. until the ledge is suitable for belaying from. Traverse along N. side(exposed) for a full rope length(old fixed piton). Belay below a narrow chimney, ascend squeeze chimney and onto wall that leads to ridge. Crux is 5.7. One half rope length to Pk. 3 summit. Several raps to snow.

      Party Size - 2

      Equipment Required - helmet, ice axe, full set of wires, sets of cams, slings

      Length of time - 11 hours, 4-6 hours on rock

      Highlights - Brilliant exposure, one of the most exposed routes anywhere, good rock,